South Korea (ROK – Republic of Korea) and North Korea (DPRK – Democratic People’s Republic of Korea) have been divided since the end of the Korean War in 1953. What started as a civil war escalated into a proxy war between the powers involved in the Cold War. An armistice was signed but was not followed by a peace treaty - so these two countries are technically still at war. This war is seen by some as ‘the forgotten war’ as it was overshadowed by World War II and the Vietnam War, but within Korea it is still very relevant and present.
The Korean peninsula is the last frontier of the Cold War with the peninsula split in half between the communist North and capitalist South.
The tension between these two countries is and has always been on a knifes edge and the event when the Cheonan Military ship sunk in March this year sent renewed fear through many parts of the world. The Cheonan was patrolling the disputed border between the North and South when it sunk in late March (The day of my arrival in Korea). Investigation uncovered that the ship was hit by a North Korean torpedo (which the North denied) and this had the world at the edge of their seats.
Both countries are heavily militarized and the South receives added support from the US army who has a military base here in Seoul.
The main reason why the world is so watchful of the North is because they pose a nuclear threat. The North is probably the world’s most secretive country and it’s this mystery surrounding it that has everyone paranoid. Linked to the fear of nuclear warfare is the hate towards the North’s notorious leader: Kim Jong-il. A controversial figure who apparently once completed a round of golf in only 18 shots. Kim Jong-il is the leader of almost everything in the DPRK, leading the propaganda machine which never sleeps and known in his country as “Dear Leader” and “Our Father”. He is feared for potentially making a wrong decision which would severely affect world stability.
The presence of the military remains prominent throughout Korea and we have to go through military check points just to visit the north of Ganghwa Island. Some afternoons we go for hikes up the hill behind my apartment and on clear days we’re treated with a sighting of the infamous North.
You’ll need to pay a visit to the DMZ to see this North South split with your own eyes. These two countries are divided by the most heavily militarized border in the world, known as the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone).
The Demilitarized Zone is approximately 4km wide and 250km long as it runs across the Korean peninsula along the 38 degree parallel.
I had the opportunity to visit the DMZ in April this year and it was an enriching experience.
Mornings I would come to school with my camera bag thinking I might see something to shoot. I don’t bring my camera to school anymore, but on this day I was lucky I did. Communication is very limited at my school and on the day I was informed of a field trip to who knew where. I climbed on the bus with my handful of students and drove North East. On the way I thought to myself that we might visit the DMZ as they started showing propaganda videos to the young minds on the bus and the direction seemed right.
As we neared the DMZ one of the teachers asked me if I had my ARC (Alien Registration Card) on me for security reasons.
“Alber-te this is a very dangerous place”
“Why?”
“It just is”
The DMZ itself is not a dangerous place for tourists; it’s just a sad story of a nation being split in two with no signs of reconciliation in the near future. It’s where these two forces meet and flex their muscles at one another. The chances of you being in danger are very slim. Their watching you! You will NEVER jump this fence and why would you? The grass is most definitely not greener on the other side. Looking from the North you might want to leave your prison, but control and propaganda will not allow this. This border is so well controlled that they probably know how many birds cross per day. People are not permitted to cross – at all.
The North has tried to cross into the South with tunnels built kilometres long into Southern territory. The plan was to invade Seoul and reclaim what ‘belongs’ to the North. This was not successful.
I paid a visit to the 3rd tunnel with height restrictions confirming that it was made by Koreans as I bumped my head a few times. A narrow tunnel 1km underground designed for one purpose only – to overthrow the South.
The view point at the DMZ was spectacular on this day and I could see into the rolling treeless hills of North Korea. It was my first opportunity to view this country frozen in time. The North has erected the world’s largest flagpole boasting their national flag and South Korean flags can be seen everywhere on their side too. An overdose of patriotism!
Photos are prohibited at most places and there is a photo line to take photos from. Being taller than your average Korean and having a 300mm lens came in handy as I tried to capture this dull late winter landscape. You can look into the country with binoculars and see the working man plough his fields and ride his bicycle - a small visual insight into this bitterly poor country.
There is nothing positive about the DMZ except that the fauna and flora has been able to flourish in this narrow stretch of land - an ecological paradise between two overly proud countries. It’s a sad place that has split families for life. Survival in the North is hard with limited reports showing that famine and malnutrition concerns are increasing.
And here I was standing on the edge, looking into the most isolated country in the world. I was observing a continued ideological war and wondered if this would ever be resolved?
I went again in September to view the North from Ganghwa Island’s observation centre and was treated with yet another clear day. The landscape was greener, but still no trees and only a handful of people working the lands. An example of how isolation and arrogance can hinder basic development needs in the 21st century.
This mighty divide will remain for some time to come though people continue to speak of unity. Everyone wants to know what’s going on in North Korea and what threat they pose, but reconciliation will not be easy and this will be an interesting case study in future years, if ever.
